Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 37. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Perforating the ham and inserting onion creates channels for aromatics to penetrate deep into the dense meat during the long boil. Wrapping in canvas (cloth) protects the exterior from overcooking while allowing gentle, even heat transfer through moist cooking. The acidic Madeira wine in the sauce helps cut through the rich, gamey flavor of mutton while the sugar balances with caramelized notes, and the butter-flour roux creates a stable emulsion that clings to the meat.
The ham can be perforated, studded with onion, salted, and wrapped up to 24 hours ahead, then refrigerated. The Madeira sauce can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated; reheat gently and whisk before serving, adding a splash of wine or water if too thick.
Store leftover ham wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or foil in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Store sauce separately in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat ham slices gently in the sauce over low heat, or serve cold sliced thin for sandwiches. The ham can also be frozen, well-wrapped, for up to 3 months.
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Perforate the ham, and put slices of onion in.
Rub it with salt.
Canvas the ham, put in whole grains of pepper and cloves; sew it tight, and boil until done.
Take three spoons sugar, one half pint Madeira wine, butter, thicken with flour; boil and turn it over the ham with parsley.
