Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 26. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
The soda (baking soda) reacts with the lactic acid in sour milk to produce carbon dioxide bubbles, creating a tender, risen texture without yeast. Kneading develops just enough gluten structure to trap these gases while keeping the dough soft. Greasing hands with lard and patting the rolls rough creates an irregular surface that browns beautifully and adds textural contrast. The slow oven prevents over-browning while allowing the interior to cook through completely.
To one gallon flour add one full tablespoon soda, and sufficient sour milk to make a soft dough; knead well, make it into large rolls.
Grease your hands well with lard, pat the rolls rough, lay them into pans, and bake in a slow oven.
The dough can be shaped into rolls, covered tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerated for up to 8 hours before baking. Bring to room temperature for 20-30 minutes before baking. The cold dough may need an additional 5 minutes of baking time.
Store completely cooled rolls in an airtight container or resealable bag at room temperature for up to 3 days. For longer storage, freeze in a freezer bag for up to 2 months. Reheat frozen rolls in a 300°F oven for 10-12 minutes or thaw at room temperature and warm briefly before serving.
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