Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 11. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This historic recipe relies on extensive egg yolk emulsification to create structure without chemical leavening—the 20 yolks provide lecithin that binds fat and water while their proteins set during baking. Splitting the yolk beating between sugar and butter creates two stable emulsions that, when combined, trap air for lift. The high ratio of butter to flour (3:4) produces an exceptionally tender, fine-grained crumb, while the small amount of cream of tartar and soda provides insurance leavening and helps stabilize the egg proteins.
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Beat sugar and eggs until light
Beat half the yelks with the sugar until very light
Beat the rest with the butter
Mix together gradually
Add brandy and rose water
Mix in the flour
Bake in a slow oven
The cake can be baked up to 2 days ahead. Once completely cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, then aluminum foil, and store at room temperature. The flavor actually improves as the brandy and rose water mellow. If frosting, wait until the day of serving for best texture.
Store unfrosted cake wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 2 months. If frosted, store under a cake dome at room temperature for up to 3 days. The high butter and sugar content acts as preservatives. Bring to room temperature before serving for optimal texture and flavor.
