
Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 33. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Boiling butter and water before adding flour gelatinizes the starch, creating a paste that can hold significant moisture and eggs. This forms a strong gluten network that traps steam during baking, causing the pastry to puff dramatically. The eggs provide structure and richness, while the small amount of soda (likely baking soda) offers additional leavening insurance. Not beating the eggs prevents overdevelopment of proteins, keeping the pastry tender rather than tough.
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Boil the butter and water together; stir in the flour by degrees while boiling; cool it, then add five eggs and one-fourth of a teaspoon of soda.
Drop on buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven.
Dressing—One pint milk, one cup sugar, two eggs, half cup flour; beat the eggs, sugar, and flour together; stir them in the milk while boiling; flavor with vanilla.
Break the cakes half round and fill with the cream, which should be made first.
Do not beat the eggs for the cake or for the cream.
This quantity makes about fifty.
The custard filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator with plastic wrap pressed directly against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. The unfilled puffs can be baked, cooled completely, and frozen in a zip-top bag for up to 1 month. Recrisp frozen puffs in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes before filling.
Unfilled cream puffs are best eaten the day they are baked but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days and recrisped in a 350°F oven for 3-5 minutes. Once filled, cream puffs should be served within 2 hours or refrigerated for up to 4 hours (though the shells will soften). The pastry and filling can be stored separately—shells at room temperature, filling refrigerated—for up to 2 days.
