Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 12. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This historic white cake relies on twenty egg whites for structure and lift, creating a delicate, angel food-like crumb. The combination of cream of tartar (acid) and baking soda (base) creates carbon dioxide when moistened and heated, providing additional leavening. The high ratio of butter to flour (3:4) creates a tender, moist crumb by coating flour proteins and limiting gluten development. Creaming butter and sugar incorporates air bubbles that expand during baking, while the candied citron adds moisture and prevents the cake from drying out.
Before You Begin
•Bring egg whites and butter to room temperature (68-70°F) for at least 1 hour before starting—cold eggs won't whip properly and cold butter won't cream smoothly
•Finely chop or mince the candied citron into small pieces (roughly 1/4-inch) so it distributes evenly throughout the batter
•Use cake flour if possible for the most tender crumb; if using all-purpose flour, remove 2 tablespoons per cup and replace with cornstarch
•Prepare your pan by buttering and flouring it thoroughly, or line with parchment paper—this delicate cake can stick easily
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Community Notes
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Measure the 'do.' (ditto) of rose water as 1/4 cup, matching the brandy measurement, and interpret 'flavor' as vanilla extract or lemon extract (1-2 teaspoons)
•Beat the egg whites separately to stiff peaks, then fold them in gently at the end to preserve the airiness essential to this cake's texture
Key Equipment
Stand mixer or hand mixer with whisk and paddle attachments10-inch tube pan or two 9-inch round cake pansLarge mixing bowls (at least 2)Rubber spatula for foldingFine-mesh sieve for sifting flour
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Beat butter and sugar until light
2
Mix ingredients together
3
Bake
Make Ahead
The candied citron can be chopped and stored in an airtight container up to 1 week ahead. The cake can be baked 1 day in advance, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and stored at room temperature. The texture actually improves slightly as the flavors meld.
Storage
Store the unfrosted cake wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 3 days, or refrigerate for up to 1 week. For longer storage, wrap well and freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight at room temperature before serving. The high butter content keeps this cake moist during storage.
