Everton Taffy, or Butter-Scotch
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Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 22. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
The combination of suet (beef fat) and eggs creates a rich, moist pudding that steams rather than bakes, preventing drying out during the long cooking time. Bread crumbs and flour absorb excess moisture while providing structure, allowing the pudding to hold its shape when unmolded. The extended boiling time (3+ hours) allows the dried fruits to rehydrate and the flavors to meld while the starches fully gelatinize, creating the characteristic dense, cohesive texture of traditional steamed pudding.
This pudding actually improves with age. It can be made up to 3 months ahead: after initial steaming, cool completely, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and foil, and store in a cool, dark place. Traditionally, the pudding is 'fed' with brandy weekly (pierce with skewer and drizzle 2 tablespoons over top). Re-steam for 1-2 hours before serving to heat through.
Once cooked and cooled, wrap the pudding tightly in plastic wrap, then aluminum foil. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in a cool, dark pantry for up to 1 month. For longer storage (up to 3 months), wrap and store in the refrigerator, feeding with brandy every 2 weeks. Reheat by steaming for 1-2 hours before serving. Leftover slices can be refrigerated for up to 1 week and gently reheated or served at room temperature.
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One lb seeded raisins, one do.
currants, one do.
flour, half do.
bread crumbs, half do.
suet, ten eggs, 1-4th lb citron, and one pint milk.
It should be boiled at least three hours; eaten with sauce composed of sugar, butter and brandy, beaten very light.
