Everton Taffy, or Butter-Scotch
hard
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Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 14. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This is an early version of Italian meringue, where hot sugar syrup cooks the egg whites while stabilizing them. Heating sugar to the 'thread stage' (230-234°F) creates a supersaturated syrup that, when beaten into egg whites, denatures the proteins and creates a stable foam structure. The hot syrup pasteurizes the eggs for food safety while the dissolved sugar molecules interfere with protein bonding, preventing the meringue from weeping or collapsing. The result is a glossy, stable icing that holds its shape.
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Boil sugar until it ropes and spins off in threads
Turn the boiling sugar slowly over the eggs, stirring thoroughly and beating
Flavor with lemon, peach, or vanilla
This icing is best used immediately while still warm and pliable. It can be made up to 2 hours ahead and held at room temperature, covered with a damp cloth to prevent crusting. Do not refrigerate as condensation will cause the meringue to weep.
Once applied to cake, the iced dessert can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 days in a cake dome or loosely covered container. Avoid refrigeration as temperature changes cause the meringue to weep and become sticky. This icing does not freeze well.
